Day 12, Grandas de Salime to A Fonsagrado

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Monday, 14 September 2026

We always knew the Primitivo would be a tough Camino and had given ourselves permission to not finish it. We have walked over 90 kms so far and done the toughest and best bit. In the past few days we have caught three taxies and covered 50 kms that way. There are about 54 kms to go to Lugo but tomorrow we plan to bus from Fonsagrado (where we are now) to Lugo and stay one night. That will finish our Primitivo for us.

In our planning before we left home we hoped to be able to do the Muros/Noia Camino as well as the Primitivo. This Camino is very easy in comparison and follows the coast around the Rio de Muros y Noia estuary. 

We have at least 10 days up our sleeves before flying back to England. So we will bus from Lugo to Santiago on Wednesday and take another bus straight out to Muros arriving at 8 pm. We will stay 2 or 3 nights in Muros then spend 5 days or so walking this little known Camino. We are looking forward to discovering this 'hidden gem'.

We are now firming up the accommodation bookings and travel arrangements as we relax in a nice hotel in A Fonsagrado. The few days free from walking should give the blisters time to heal properly and allow the knees to settle.



All the hotels we have stayed in have been of a similar standard as this and have been priced between €50 and €60 per night. An extra €7 for breakfast usually.

Each of the albergues has been very clean, well equipped and welcoming and we have not had too much of a problem with the shared dormitories. These prices have varied between €9 and €17 per person per night. Some have included breakfast.


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